The Publican

The Publican has been a Chicago institution since 2008, and fifteen years later, it’s still one of the best reasons to fight for a reservation in Fulton Market. This beer-hall-meets-oyster-bar-meets-pork-temple remains essential eating.

The Vibe

Walking into The Publican feels like entering a medieval great hall redesigned by someone with excellent taste. Long communal tables, exposed brick, and a general atmosphere of “we’re all here to eat well” permeate the space. It’s loud—sometimes uncomfortably so during peak hours—but that’s part of the experience.

If you’re planning an intimate conversation, look elsewhere. If you want to eat great pork and drink great beer with friends, this is your spot.

What We Ate

The Pork

Let’s be clear: you come to The Publican for the pork. Their whole-hog program is legendary, and it shows in every dish.

The country ham is a perfect start—thinly sliced, slightly sweet, with enough funk to remind you this isn’t grocery store deli meat. Paired with house pickles and good bread, it’s an ideal first bite.

But the pork belly is the star. Impossibly crispy outside, meltingly tender inside, with an apple mostarda that cuts through the richness. I’ve had this dish on three separate visits, and it’s never disappointed.

The Oysters

The raw bar is legit. Six oysters from various regions, impeccably sourced and shucked. The selection changes frequently, and the staff knows their origins and flavor profiles. If you’re an oyster person, you won’t be disappointed.

The Miss

The whole roasted fish was… fine. Well-executed technically, but at $42, I wanted more wow factor. It’s a perfectly good dish that pales next to the pork program. For that price at The Publican, I’d rather get more ham and pork belly.

The Beer

The Publican’s beer list is one of Chicago’s best, with a focus on Belgian and farmhouse styles. If you’re not sure what to order, ask your server—they know the list well and can match a beer to your food.

The Verdict

After all these years, The Publican still delivers. The pork program is worth the hype, the oysters are excellent, and the atmosphere (if you embrace the chaos) is genuinely fun. Skip the whole fish and lean into what they do best: pork and oysters, washed down with excellent beer.

A solid 4 out of 5—not quite perfect, but still one of my go-to recommendations for visitors asking “where should I eat in Chicago?”